dimarts, 12 de març de 2013

La 'nova' pastisseria-restaurant Farga Diagonal i el nou forn-restaurant Boldú Provença (Barcelona)

FARGA DIAGONAL
Res-tau-rant

Un dels (cog)noms majúsculs de la pastisseria barcelonina rellança el seu local estendard, la botiga-restaurant de la Diagonal. Un fet: el nou aspecte —“modern i amb personalitat”; luxós, no rococó— i el nou concepte —ara, sopars— de la seu fundacional de l’imperi, amb més de mig segle, mig miler de treballadors, set establiments al cap i casal —tres dels quals, restaurants—, un centenar de Farggi a la península i a Qatar —el 80%, franquícies—, i, inoblidable, la figura del fundador, Jesús Farga, mort el 2011. I una idea: Farga no és només dolç, sinó, també, restauració i servei d’àpats; ho subratlla, lliurada a la marca, la directora comercial, Dúnia Llach: “Som un restaurant diferent”.

Malgrat els grans números i els 700 metres quadrats de l’establiment, farcit al vespre tant de gormands visitants (d’hora) com de locals (tard), “l’essència” del “negoci familiar”, diu Llach, és la de sempre: “tots els clients són vips” i “el no, d’entrada, no existeix”. Tres cartes: la de restaurant pura i dura, “de mercat reivindicant la qualitat de la millor cuina mediterrània”, amb arròs caldós o la mítica hamburguesa Farga; la d’entrepans i xarcuteria, i la de tapes. I, clar, postres d’escàndol. De matinada, els caps de setmana, gintònic de franc. A la carta de vins, supervisada per Manel Roig del Tarré, una quarantena de propostes, on regnen i empaten dues DO consagrades: Penedès i Rioja.

Preu: Carta: 35 €. Menú especial: 25 €. Menú (migdia): 19,95 € ò 22,50 € (saló). Ampolla: 10,25-49 €.
Adreça: Diagonal, 391. Barcelona (Dreta de l’Eixample).
Telèfon: 93 416 01 12.
Horari: De dl. a dj. de 8 a 0 h, dv. de 8 a 1 h, ds. de 9 a 1 h i dg. de 9 a 0 h.

BOLDÚ PROVENÇA
‘Boldnutmen’

D’una pastisseria multifunció a un establiment de matriu fornera, també diversificat. Dos xamfrans més avall —Provença amb rambla Catalunya— aterrava a l’abril una “família de forners” gracienca —del Coll, on té les dues botigues de sempre—, amb l’aval de set dècades i tres generacions pastant pa-pa. La forneria gurmet treu pit, si bé l’autenticitat promesa no sempre és tal: per una “revolució total” que ha estat “impulsada per altres”, “tothom et ven tradició”; així, les fleques “de tota la vida” que no evolucionin estan “destinades a morir”. Parla, enèrgic, Enrique Aragón Boldú, que, des de fa un any, refresca l’empresa, per a la qual lluita amb sa germana, sa mare i una vintena d’empleats.

“Ho fem tot a mà. Tot”, fa. Al voltant de la forneria, brioixeria i pastisseria, però mes enllà —és una fleca-restaurant—, i a preus assequibles: “Jo no vull vendre luxe. Jo sóc forner”. S’hi pot esmorzar, dinar, berenar o... sopar (d’horeta). El “producte estrella de llarg” és el boldnut, el dònut Boldú, que pren vida (boldnutman) i s’adapta a les diades. La carta de salats de tardor-hivern es compromet a “fer-ho tot com abans” i ofereix crema de verdures, tartines, planxats, amanides i carpaccios, i pastes i risottos. Dos vins: el negre, Pactum 2010, de Catalunya, i el blanc, el verdejo La Estacada, de Castella —de la seva Tierra. Decoració retro de Voland. Aviat, nova obertura. On? Secret.

Preu: Carta: 9 €. Menú: 6,95 €, 7,95 € ò 10,95 €. Ampolla: 7,50 €.
Adreça: Provença, 233. Barcelona (Dreta de l’Eixample).
Telèfon: 93 467 45 42.
Horari: De dl. a ds. de 7 a 22 h i dg. de 8 a 21 h.

(Cupatges, desembre del 2012 – gener del 2013.)

(Fotos: cedides.)

12 comentaris:

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M'ha encantat el que has dit sobre la pastisseria Farga de Diagonal. Jo, un parell de cops per setmana, em regalo un esmorzar en aquest establiment. És com un premi que em faig. I com que ja et coneixen no has ni de demanar res. Saben què vols i com ho vols. Amables i competents.
El senyor Jesús Farga era nascut a Sanaüja, a la Segarra, la meva terreta. Potser per això sempre he tingut tirada a anar-hi. Ja se sap, la "màfia" de Ponent sempre ens fem costat.

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